28 September 2010

¡Buen Provecho! Food in Spain

Hola amigos,

I’ve not been in Spain a week, yet I’ve already had some delicious and…well, muy interesante Spanish food. A vegetarian for six years, I’ve decided to try meat while I’m here to more fully experience the culture. While I’ve enjoyed what I’ve tasted (chicken, fish drowned in some kind of white wine sauce, shrimp, medium-rare pig sausage), I plan to continue my vegetarian diet once I return to the US.

Unfortunately for me, they do not eat much chocolate in Spain. My host mother Fuensanta asked me what we eat for dessert in the US, and she was very, very surprised when I told her that, in my house, we always eat chocolate. She told me that, in Spain, they usually eat chocolate only with other things, such as in bready pastries, and always for a snack, not for dessert. She does, however, love dipping churros (a fried breakfast pastry) in hot cocoa (which is much thicker in Spain than what we drink the US) when it’s very cold.

Chocolate withdrawal symptoms aside, I’ve eaten some very scrumptious food in Spain. My favorite foods thus far:

-Postres de manzana—delicious apple pastries

-Queso conafrutas (con marmalada de ciruela y moras)—an absolutely heavenly desert dish that consists of some kind of white cheese covered in prune or blackberry (or any other fruit!) marmalade

-El arroz gitano—“Gypsy Rice” My host father Federico made this dish with rice, chicken, shrimp, and vegetables. It was very delicious, but when I asked him why it was called “gypsy rice,” he said, “Because it is very poor, like a gypsy.” I don’t quite understand what he meant by poor because the dish está muy rico! I asked again but received the same answer. Will persist investigation and report back.

-Churros and porras, only in moderation! At the urging of my host family, I ate too many for breakfast before my trip to Madrid and felt a little queasy the whole bus ride there.

-Tortilla con cebolla—Spanish tortilla with onions on top are delicious!

-Ensalada con caramelized queso de cabra—salad with caramelized (¡no sé como se dice “caramelized” en español!) goat cheese. Perhaps the best salad I’ve had in my life!

-Las almendras (con sal y aceite)—In their home in the countryside, Fuensanta, Carmen, and I cracked open almonds with rocks. Then, we boiled them (the almonds, that is, not the rocks) a bit so the skin would fall off, and once they cooled a bit, we peeled off the skin, added salt and oil, and dug in! A delicious snack.

The stranger foods:

-Crema de calabacín—pureed zucchini cream. During our first dinner together, my family served me this dish in a tiny bowl, and I ate little spoonfuls (not wanting to offend my very first night!). Honestly, it tasted like vegetable oil. I think it would be better as a sauce for something, but certainly not as its own dish.

-Cereal y café con leche—cereal and coffee with milk. Perhaps I should elaborate. This morning, my Spanish sister Carmen warmed up my milk (because there’s no such thing as cold milk here) with hers. When she poured coffee into my milk, I thought, “Hmm, well I guess I’ll need another bowl for my cereal” (aside: they drink coffee out of small bowls, tazónes). But surprise, surprise, Carmen proceeded to pour Corn Flakes into my coffee. And it was her turn to be surprised when I told her it was my first time I’d had cereal in my coffee! ¡Qué curioso!

-Flan—tastes like eggs. And not in a good way. I didn’t like it even when it was drowned in chocolate with whipped cream on the side.

Etiquette:

-Keeping hands above the table! Unlike Americans, Spaniards eat almost with their elbows on the table. Each member of my family always has a little piece of bread in one hand and a fork in the other.

-Fighting over whose dishes are the best: “Yes, your rice is good, but not as good as my mother’s!” The best food is always the food made in the home, and you need to advertise it loudly, dammit.

-Cebollas—onions are muy importante in Spanish cooking. A funny saying in Spanish is, “Quitar el orgullo de la cebolla,” which literally means to rob the pride from the onion. In practice, it means to fry the onion a little bit.

-Corn is used in salads and some other dishes, but overall, corn is considered to be a food for cows and other cattle, not suitable for human consumption. When I brought my family traditional American candy corn, I had to explain, “Es dulces de maíz, pero no es de maíz; es de miel y azucar!

Phew, after all this talk of food, tengo hambre. ¡Ciao! for now.

23 September 2010

First Impressions of Spain

Hola amigos,

I made it to Spain safely today! I barely slept on my flight (that was delayed over an hour due to lightning storms around DC), but Iḿ so very happy. I loved my brief impressions of Madrid walking around killing time before I had to meet at the statue of Christopher Columbus to go to Toledo. I think my friends and I accidentally wandered into some kind of restricted zone, because the street was barred off and guarded by a man with a gun. I apologized when I realized we were on the wrong side of the barrier, and he seemed amused at how flustered I was and told me, "Itś cool!"in English as he let me back through the barrier. One thing that frustrates me is how people will automatically switch over to English, but I´ve been told that, in Toledo, unlike in Madrid, not as many people speak English.

Toledo is a giant maze! Honestly, the landscapes remind me of driving through parts of Kentucky, with sheer cliffs dropping off. From a tower within la Fundacion where Iḿ learning Spanish, the red tile roofs looked so close and numerous that they made me think of a city made of gingerbread houses all piled on top of one another. The streets are winding with many steep, cobblestoned hills, and I cant wait to get lost in them!

I ADORE my host family. I have a Spanish hermanita named Carmen. Sheś very sweet, and she loves to read. Her parents told me she likes American music, including Leonard Cohen (sheś only 10!), but NOT Bob Dylan. She told me in Spanish that she dislikes his voice. (Of course, my own sister Dottie said the same thing, but now she has Dylan on her iPod, so Iḿ set on changing Carmenś opinion, as well, over the course of my stay!) The mother is so kind and lovely, and she told me I was guapa which of course was very nice of her. The father is from the south of Spain, so heś very hard to understand. He told me he likes American Westerns (he likes Clint Eastwood, so weĺl have to watch Dirty Harry together!). When they told me about their small house in the country (to which they invited me!), they said that there are horses and bulls, and the father says he likes to pretend heś a cowboy as he rides a horse with all the bulls nearby. I cracked up.

Iḿ very nervous about the language barrier. Iḿ mostly frustrated because I love my host family SO SO much, and I want to be able to talk to them because theyŕe everything I could have ever hoped for and more. They know Iḿ nervous, and the mother actually said SHEŚ very nervous, so Iḿ sure weĺl get along.

Sorry for missing punctuation in places, Im still getting used to this Spanish keyboard... I have to go to dinner now! Yumyum. Oh, by the way, Iḿ giving up my vegetarianism in Spain, at least just to try the real Spanish food. Pray for my degenerate vegetarian soul!

Ciao,
Anna