02 January 2011

Grasshoppers for Lunch

Hola amigos,

Today, I ate grasshoppers for lunch! My host mom called them "chapulines," and in Spain they are "saltamontes" (but not food), as in the verb saltar, to jump. (Another cool Spanish language fun-fact to think about: "paragua" is the word for umbrella, literally translating into "for water;" whereas a "parasol" means "for sun." Sorry, these things excite me.) Mis padres mexicanos and I went to their house in the countryside, and afterwards we met up with two señores (who were their friends, but I'm not sure what was the connection? Hard to hear over the live music, y todavía no estoy acustombrada al accento mexicano) in an open-air, buffet-style restaurant with loads of colorful decorations and waitresses dressed in brightly-colored, traditional garb.

I. Ate. So. Much. Food. My first plate consisted of my little insect friends (one of the men commented on how great it was that I was trying the insects! Yay for being an adventurous American! Anna the Awesome, Amazing, Adventurous American...new blog title anyone? No? Mmmkay);
mole verde with rice; a potato cake; chile relleno with chicken; a flauta/taquito topped with guacamole and cheese; freshly chopped salsa on the side. My second plate was a bowl filled with pumpkin-flower soup, that was one of the best things I've EVER tasted en mi vida. My third round was a smaller bowl of soup with zucchini and a bit of cheese; on my plate, a piece of chicken flavored with a reddish-brown mole with some kind of leaf (I forget the name!). For dessert, I ate tiny apples in a sweet sauce; a pulpy pumpkin dessert with cinnamon; arroz con leche. Horchata washed it all down. ¡Buen provecho!

After eating, mis padres mexicanos and I walked around behind the restaurant where there was a small playground for the children. My host mom wanted to show me the emus in a cage, and I laughed when she said to the emu, "Emu, ¡qué feo eres! Ugly, ugly, ugly!" She's a lot of fun, and guapísima to boot! As a psychologist, she has an interesting perspective on one of my favorite Spanish movies, El laberinto del fauno. While I think that Ofelia's imaginative world is beautfiul and magical, my host mom bluntly stated, "That girl is psychotic. The man is a killer, he's a sociopath, which is a different disease. She had to escape from her hard reality, and the reality was worse than her crazy world. But she's a psycho." Perhaps one day we will debate our differeing perspectives on the film.

Some beautiful things I saw: cacti hanging over the edge of a crumbling wall; an ENORMOUS tree with massive roots jutting out through that same wall; children riding in the back of pick-up trucks; a mural of street art with bees; the decorations in the restaurant catching the light of the sun; my host parents holding hands.

Gotta read now, as I have un montón of reading before my first class has even started. Back to the UChicago grind I suppose, only Oaxaca-style!

Besos,
Anna

01 January 2011

First Impressions of Oaxaca

Hola amigos,

Sooooo I failed royally at blogging in Spain. I still intend on posting stories from Spain in my blog at some point, but now to talk about OAXACA!

I got on a plane in Raleigh, NC, at 7 in the morning, to catch a plane to Charlotte, to catch a plane to Mexico City, to catch a plane to Oaxaca. Phew! Mexico City is the biggest, most sprawled-out city I've ever seen; it was quite an impressive sight from up in the air. I caught up with some students from my program (who I love!...I'm excited to get to know everyone better while I'm here!) on my flight to Oaxaca. On my plane, I sat beside a woman named Louise. When she spoke to me in perfect American English, I asked her where she was from, and she replied, "I've lived in Mexico for 10 years now, so I'm now a Mexican citizen, but before that, I lived in New York," which created in my mind all sorts of hilarious images (especially given the recent snowstorm) of a disgruntled New Yorker waking up one day and saying, "Hang it all!" (only, of course, in the more colorful, blunt language of New York City) and moving to Mexico. Best of all, when I told her that I go to the University of Chicago, she goes, "Oh, I graduated from there." What are the chances I would sit beside a UChicago alum on my plane to Oaxaca? I hope to catch up with her while she's vacationing in Oaxaca.

Oaxaca from the air is gorgeous. The clouds were in all sorts of wonderful and bizarre shapes (one that looked like a judge with a white wig reaching out his hands from his billowing gown [I made such a fuss about the clouds that Louise commented, "You know, the mountains are something, too!"), and the light through the clouds made everything seem so mystical. The ripples in the mountains reminded me of crinkles in bedsheets, which created (for me) the image of giants sleeping inside the earth.

In the airport, I was expecting my host mother and 19 year-old host sister to pick me up, but what I found was my host brother (who I hadn't known existed!) and his friend, both 20-something year-olds who talked about how much they partied last night on New Year's Eve and who honked at women on the streets (then apologized to me for their behavior, only to do it again at the next corner). I was grinning the whole time in the carride; their energy was infecitious, and their antics made me laugh. It was hard to follow thier fast-paced Spanish as they joked together and cursed at slow drivers. My host family has so far talked to me mostly in English, but I'm going to insist on speaking Spanish to them while I'm here. They've hosted two students each year for about 10 years, so living here is a much different feel from my host family in Spain, where they had never hosted a student (and had never had a 20 year-old girl living under their roof) and were thus very hands-on with me, but I already like my Mexican host family!

After eating dinner, I've been in my room unpacking, e-mailing to let everyone know I've arrived, and getting ready for bed, as I've had quite the tiring day in airports. From my brief glimpse of Oaxaca, I already love it. There's so much life in the air (and actually, I can hear from my window that at this very moment, there are fireworks in the air), and I loved all the sights from my carride through the city: a man pulling along a snack cart on his bicycle, the colorful buildings in yellows and corals, the old couples dressed up, the children playing in the streets, the colorful decorations hanging from buildings and criss-crossing above the roads, the palm trees...I can't wait until tomorrow morning when my host mother María shows me around! Today has been a great start to my next adventure abroad, as well as to the new year.

¡Feliz Año Nuevo!

Besos,
Anna